Saturday, November 22, 2008

Thanksgiving Wines 1: Last Years Old World Picks

Since Turkey Day is right around the corner, I felt obliged to send something out. This is the first in a series of articles I wrote last year for a local wine shop. I left the links in, but I don't know if they are still available. I can vouch for this list since many of the wines below made it to my family's feast (the remainder of the wines were Pinot Noirs which will be in the next article). I highly suggest the Dolcettos (we will talk more about this later via video). As for now just enjoy the sick level of verbosity the Bo Brothers can provide when cash is on the line...

It’s Time to Talk Turkey: Old World Wine Meets The All American Bird - Luke Bohanan

This time of year makes for a lot of stress for the home chef. Saturated with a deluge of recipe ideas for turkey, stuffing, squash, and the rest of the holiday fair, the brave cook toils under the constant scrutiny of hungry friends and family. Don’t worry, we at Tewksbury Fine Wine won’t add to the sea of “How to cook your turkey” suggestions, but we do have just the pairings that will bring out the sweet and savory flavors of your well orchestrated meal in this three part “Time to Talk Turkey” series, starting with some great old world wines.

White Wine Lovers
Riesling is well known for its spice, fruit, good acid, and distinct minerality that will cut right through the fat in rich gravy and juicy roasted turkey, refreshing the pallet for that next bite of drumstick. Germans and Austrians enjoy their Rieslings with sausages, gravy laden Jaeger Schnitzel, and even roasted turkey or goose breast. In France, the Alsatians drink their prized Rieslings with roast duck, pork, and foie gras. These dry wines are time tested favorites for roasted meats, and are perfect for old world wine fans, and white wine lovers alike.

Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt Riesling 2004 - $24.99
“The 2004 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett represents a single 2,000-case bottling. Smelling enticingly of white grapefruit, lime, and black currant, in the mouth it is like the alter-ego of the Josephshofer: all brisk and luscious fruit acidity and citrus. For a wine, this clear and invigorating one is willing to sacrifice cuddly creaminess. The finish positively shimmers, with abundant grapefruit and black fruits, in a dynamic exchange with salts and slate.” 90 Points - Robert Parker

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Riesling 2005 - $22.99
"A mix of smoke, mineral and apple aromas and flavors in a dry, racy profile. This may be a bit lean for some tastes, so make sure you pair it with food. The citrus and mineral aftertaste begs for oysters or shellfish. Drink now with some decanting or cellar through 2017." Only 1,000 cases made. 89 points - Wine Spectator

Trimbach Riesling 2004 - $20.99
Beautiful in color with a hint of green on the edge, this wine needs a few more months to reveal its potential and will age gracefully another few years. The nose is developed and shows a hint of mineral flavor associated with good ripeness and acidity and a lingering clean and dry finish. It is ready to drink now but will improve with age over the next five years. Vintage not yet rated

Old World Red Lovers
As for old world red lovers I have a one word answer, Dolcetto. This much overlooked varietal from Italy’s Piedmonte region, of Barolo and Barbaresco fame, literally means “little sweet one.” Don’t be fooled by the name, however, these are wonderfully styled dry reds, that bring plenty of rich fruit and that classic Italian acid back bone, without the high tannins found in most old world reds. These wines are made to be enjoyed young, and are incredibly well priced, as they live under the constant shadow of their Barolo and Barbaresco big brothers. This makes a great holiday wine to stock up on for Italiophiles, as it will also match well with more delicate pasta and risotto dishes.

Mascarello Dolcetto d' Alba Bricco 2004 - $18.99
Perfect for those who love earthy reds. “Medium violet, Mascarello’s 2004 Dolcetto offers the typical varietal notes of blue/black fruit, wet earth, and minerals in a somewhat clenched, lean, and austere style.” Drink now through 2008. 87 points - Wine Advocate

Roagna Dolcetto 2005 - $14.99
“The Dolcetto d’Alba is a terrific introduction to the wines of this producer. Made from a blend of fruit sourced from the family’s holdings in Castiglione Falletto and Barbaresco, it typically sees fermentation and maceration lasting 15-20 days, unheard of for Dolcetto. The 2005, a deeply-colored violet, is a gorgeous effort bursting with plum blueberry and licorice nuances. It offers outstanding length in a slightly riper, more generous style than the 2004, with a characteristic, slightly bitter note on the finish,. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2012. Roagna’s entry-level wines are every bit as representative of this producer’s unique style as are the higher priced Barolo and Barbaresco bottlings. Old vines, very late harvests and extended macerations are the rule.” 90 Points – Wine Advocate

Palmina Dolcetto 2005 - $22.99
A woderfull old world styled wine from the golden state (hey we had to get America in here somewhere). “The elegant 2005 Dolcetto possesses an authentic chocolate/mocha character as well as loads of fruit, no noticeable tannin, and a satisfying, fruity personality. Enjoy it over the next several years. If you haven’t yet discovered Palmina, these are very impressive Italian-inspired wines from one of California’s most brilliant winemakers.” 87 Points – Robert Parker

1 comment:

vanguy said...

Good post - will bookmark your site.
Saw the link on WLTV comments.
Best wishes,